KWANDALA 4 NIGER FOOD CRISIS; THE EPOCH JOURNEY TO ZARMOU

The Press Conference we called the day before the journey, Thursday 6th October 2005 was of international repute by all standards, for BBC, VOA, Radio Deutchwelle were all in attendance amongst our NTA, Freedom Radio, Trust Media, Triumph etc. It was held at The Foundation Secretariat located at Fairview House, along Zaria Road opposite Gyadi-gyadi Quarters Kano. The Foundation President Arc. Tijjani Muhammad Musa read an address stating the purpose for calling the well-attended press conference, highlighting major areas of difficulties and how they were all surmounted in the course of executing the project “Kwandala 4 NIGER FOOD CRISIS” which was started in July, 2005 in response to the call for food aid to Niger Republic. The presentation ended with the statement “Where would the world be without information, where could it be without the press?” The question and answer session that followed lasted for about 15 minutes and there were post-conference interviews that further shed more light on the intended trip to famine stricken Niger the next day Friday 07th October 2005.

Our trip could have happened earlier but for certain trying and challenging reasons, we had to wait till the first week of the holy month of Ramadan, which turned out to be sheer blessing as it is a time when good deeds are recommended due to its multiplier effect spiritually. Those in the know religiously would understand what this means. Anyway, finally it is D-day, Friday 7th October 2005 . As usual with me, my traveling bag was still not packed, even after returning from the mosque for the dawn prayer. Instead of getting busy packing things I would need for the journey, I calmly sat on my side of the bed, opened my Qur’an and read some chapters, my favourite Ar-Rahman, Al’Asr and Al’Iklas. Done with that, I wrote out all the things I intend to carry along and then commenced putting them together in my traveling kit. Only after that did I take my bath, got dressed and bid farewell to Bilkiss, my wife of a decade plus 1 year. My kids had since left for school, so it was only the 16 month old baby of the family that was left to repeatly utter his favourite name for me “Abbai”, tottering after me, wanting to come along and beginning to cry when I could not pick him up as is usual. His mother came to both our rescue. Leaving my car at home I took a ride to the meeting point and arrived at the Secretariat a minute or 2 past 9 o’clock .

Maryam and Zainab Dalhatu were the first to catch my attention before I noticed Datti Garko, Salihu Tanko Yakasai, Umar Azare, Dr. Isa Umar and Garba Bagwai all looking colourful and fresh, sitting at the edge of a big concrete flower pot in front of our office. With smiles on all faces, some expressed mock shock, with Maryam exclaiming “Ah! Mr. President! What time is it?” Salihu quickly followed with “I thought you said 8:00 am” My response was a charming smile and a “Good morning ladies” and to the guys I said “I actually expected there would a delay, so I kind of took my time” On a more serious note though I asked “So where’s the rest of the team and the bus?” I was informed that it was yet to arrive and the others too. With my Panasonic Handy-camera, I immediately started video recording the pre-trip action. The atmosphere was pleasant and gay, so was everybody’s mood. And with the sun shining, warm and friendly, we chatted away another hour within which Abdallah King Hussain, AbdurRahman Baffa Yola and Umar Nuhu arrived completing the team; with Yusuf Ibrahim at Dawanau Market ensuring the 70-80 bags of food aids was loaded on the truck. Finally we were ready to commence but discovered that the mini-bus could not contain all present and so AbdurRahman was requested to subject his Honda Legend for the Journey, to which he consented without bathing an eye lid. Then we took off.

We arrived at the Niger Republic Consulate around 12:30 pm, where we got our ‘Lé Passé’ in both English and French covering all the persons, foods, medical items and 3 vehicles with plate numbers BC 123 ABJ, XA 655 UGG and AU 992 NSR and our Diplomatic Aide who was to be our guide to Zarmou village, our destination in Zinder State of Niger Republic. Taking 3 additional persons who were natives and going home, one of who was the brother of the traditional village head, we moved out of the Consulate in our 2 vehicles to meet the food carrying truck, waiting for us at Kwanar Ungogo.

The journey proper thus commenced at 1:37 pm, almost time for the Juma’at prayer. Some suggested we observe it first before we continue while others were of the opinion that we can always stop and observe one along the road. This option was favoured and so we “hit the road” as the saying goes. And not too long on the road, a little after passing Bukavu Barracks, our progress was temporarily blocked by parked vehicles and Muslim devotees, who were waiting patiently to perform the Friday prayer in one of the many mosques at Kurna Asabe Quarters, along Ungogo Road . As predicted, we naturally parked and joined the congregation. Eventually the prayer was over and the road was cleared enough for us to continue, which we did with much enthusiasm.

Soon we arrived at the truck parked at Kwanar Ungogo, where we encountered our first and only major problem. The original vehicle contracted to convey the food items had developed a fault and so could not be used for the trip. The persons, who had entered the original contract with us therefore found a substitute vehicle and driver and transferred the agreement on to him. But this new truck driver wanted to be paid more than the initially agreed sum due to the delay we had experienced before take-off time. Accepting our default, we asked how much more he wanted, he demanded for more that half the original agreed contract sum and threatened to off-load the food items if we fail to meet his latest figure. We were furious and wanted to call his bluff, but realized that time was not in our favour and his vehicle number was listed on the Lé Passé papers. We quickly calmed down and coerced him into accepting an additional N5, 000.00, pointing out that we were not embarking on this trip as a business venture but on humanitarian grounds. God willing, he saw reasons in our explanation and finally agreed, but not before another precious 30-45 minutes have gone down the drain. Eventually we continued, after photocopies of the Lé Passé made earlier were distributed among the 3 vehicles, since it was not possible for us to travel in a convoy as the truck would be much slower than the mini bus and the car.

Oops, I forgot to mention that the original mini bus driver could not make it due to some family problem, which he chose to inform us about only in the very last minute. So we ended up without a professional driver to take us to Niger. What’s to be done? One of us had to take the wheels. So Datti Garko ended up in the driver’s seat. He proved without a doubt, quite a capable hand in the situation and it was agreed to replace him by any other among the team who can drive, if he should get tired. We were all fasting, even though we were at liberty not to, because of the journey, but must repay the missed days after the month of Ramadan, a grace from our Lord and Maker. Another “finally”, we started on the real journey to Zarmou village, to do nothing but deliver food aids, medical services and a message of hope and friendship The Kwandala Foundation has been able to gather from the people of Kano and Nigeria. Thus ready we said, “Zarmou, here we come” and prayed for a safe voyage.

With the Toyota bus up front and the Honda following closely behind, we resisted fear, doubt and inertia and made progress. Soon we were all engaged with discussing the challenges we faced in the course of the project, marveling at some developments and cringing with shock and dismay at others. But generally we congratulated ourselves for making it thus far against all odds. For many hoped that the mission would fail, which was to be expected. Many made outright efforts to discourage and even sabotage our collective efforts toward achieving the set objectives of the project. But with dedication, commitment, resilience and Allah’s Assistance, here we are on our way to Niger . We noted further highlights in the careful planning, solicitation, collection, coordination, interactions at various levels, the press conference etc and added it all to our swelling bank of experience. We also talked about the blessings of embarking upon the journey in this blessed month and how proud we all were to be involved with such a noble project. There were jokes, teases, plays, pranks about and on each other as well as recollection of amazing, funny moments and annoying instances while executing “Kwandala 4 Niger Food Crisis” It was exciting companionship all the way. Often we took time to wonder what the Legend occupants behind us were talking about.

Soon we were getting near Dambatta and there were tree belts planted on both side of the road to which Salisu Tanko Yakasai claimed his father was responsible for planting them. So I said “You see what the old generation did? How about you, what have you contributed to the system?” He was quite for a brief moment then he said, “I’m on my way to Niger for the sake of Allah and some unfortunate souls, that is my own legacy” What can I say, but to admit “Well said junior, my man. Well said”. Soon that town was behind us and we were speeding towards Kazaure. And that town too was soon overtaken but we had to stop briefly at a filling station, in the outskirt to buy fuel in a 50-litre jerry can, as we were informed that the commodity is very expensive in Niger . At that station while we performed ablution to pray our Asr’ prayer, I took the trouble to call home and let my family know we were safe and sound. Daura too was soon visible to us and upon entering, we tried to make some more photocopies of the Lé Passé in this old historic town, which would be required at the border during our checking and clearance. But in our quest not to waste any more time, we could not be patient enough to locate a business center, so we moved on.

Finally, we arrived at Kongolam, the border post between Nigeria and Niger at about 5:30 pm . We disembarked after parking in front of an office block housing the various border related government parastatals and offices on our side of the divide. Without wasting much time we moved from one office to another; Customs, Immigration, Quarantine, State Security Services, NAFDAC etc. Here we were interrogated about who we are, what our mission was, our specific destination, how long we intend to stay, what kind of food and medical aids were in the truck etc. The names of our executives present were recorded and the photocopies of some documents were demanded. Being our first time on a trip like this, we demonstrated inexperience but were carefully guided through the process by many of the officers, who were excited about our presence, seeing the tags hanging from our individual neck declaring us as officials of The Kwandala Foundation on project “K4 Niger Food Crisis”

One incident however weakened our morals as an officer requested that we would have to go to Katsina and get a permit before we would be allowed to take the food aids across the border. Obviously wanting to play the evil that is eroding our national prestige at the international stage. What else are we talking about but the cankerworm called Corruption? But a superior officer came to our rescue and informed that he has heard much about our Foundation and what we are doing and having observed our tags, he instructed that we should be cleared. In another office, someone was thrilled seeing us. He told every one who cared to listen that he heard about this our trip on BBC World Service just that morning and was pleased to witness our passage. He further demanded to know where we are located in Kano and how he can join the Foundation. We gladly furnished him with the necessary information and looked forward to receiving him. Again when we came out another man came enquiring who we were, when told, he dipped his hand in his pocket and produced a N5.00 note and gave it to us as his own donation towards our cause. It was to say the least, a most rewarding encounter, all thanks is due to Allah.

With all the checking and clearances done, for by then the truck had arrived at the border too, we were given a symbolic wooden square, small enough to fit into the palm, this we were told to hand over to the border officials on the other side as our pass. We then board our vehicles and crossed into Niger Republic , for some of us including yours truly, for the very first time in our lives. After driving for a minute or 2, we arrived at their own border offices for a similar checking and documentation exercise. Fortunately it was around 6:15 pm and the day’s fasting has come to an end. It was here that we all gratefully broke our fast and prayed our Magrib (sunset) prayer in a congregation, this time with Muslim Nigeriens.

The first thing one notice about the people depends on one’s inclination and sense of observation. For some it is the physical, for others it is the spiritual and some it is none of the above. As for me it is all of the above, for I immediately noticed a drop in affluence of the environment, the road suddenly reduced to just half of the one we had just left on the Nijaa side of the border and its finishing was also of a lower grade. The people dress sense was simple and humble. And immediately one noticed their hospitable nature. Nigeriens are warm and friendly people within and it manifest in their interaction without. I instantly lost all apprehensions and fears about my hosts and felt completely at ease in their midst, gaining confidence by the minute and looked forward to hitch-free trip.

Mobile “Bureau de Change” in form of young men appeared from nowhere with bundles of notes neatly arranged in various denominations and started to make brisk business, collecting our Naira and giving us their Francs. I usually tread with caution in situations like that and so extended my feelings verbally to the rest of the team. Some heeded but others were already halfway gone or were fully done in the ensuing excitement. I declined rushing into any exchange because the place was a bit dark without any electrical lighting. But then there was Salihu, who speaks some French and had been to Niger several times before. We consulted him for guidance and once again we were reassured enough to freely give and take. Meanwhile others among us were busy sampling the local delicacies on offer at nearby stands. One particular food that had almost everybody liking their fingers was a pizza like combination of shredded cassava flakes and egg fried together. It had us asking for more. Bread and stew, which we came along with, came in handy as we just got cold mineral drinks to wash it down with. Bottled water and milk drinks we purchased earlier were distributed, though both were too hot for drinking from the weather and our Dr. Umar cautioned about hot milk on an empty hungry stomach.

The guys were all over the place but our female companions, the Dalhatu sisters confined themselves to the back of the Legend car, from where we made sure they were comfortably served. By the time our clearance was processed by Umar Nuhu, our hunger and thirst were both satisfied. Another interesting incidence was when a border officer was introduced to me as leader of the team. He demanded for 80 dollars (I can not say whether it is US or equivalent) as road levy. I explained our mission and destination to him and when he became uncooperative, I told him we might be forced to off-load our consignment there. After all we have fulfilled our promise to the donors, which was to take the food aids to Niger and we were already in that country. He was quite for a moment, then walked over to his superior officer and consulted with him. He never came back to me till we left the border post.

Our next worry was where to spend the night if and when we eventually reach our destination. Accommodation arrangements have been made for us at the Zarmou, but some of us were not too keen about its convenience. So suggestions were tendered from different angles. Some advised that we get hotel accommodations in Zinder, while others pointed out that we might not be able to afford it based on our tight budget. So I asked what were the rates for single and double rooms. First someone said N800.00 and calculating for six rooms (2 person/room), I realized we could afford it. But then one of the natives on our entourage informed that each room goes for about N2, 700.00. This was way out of our budget, so we finally agreed to manage the village hospitality; after all it is only for one night. Thus concluded we left the border. It was around 7.45 pm now and Datti confessed that he was not so good with night traveling, so would need to be replaced as the bus driver. Being a good night driver, that is my favourite time of traveling, I took over the steering wheel and leading the 3 vehicles we commenced the next phase of the trip.

Passing through the many towns and villages that dotted this one-lane interstate highway to Zinder, we made progress. Interesting to note was that drivers switch on their left side trafficator (signal) each time another vehicle was approaching from the opposite direction. And if you are overtaking a car, the driver ahead flashes his left signal telling you to go ahead or flashes his right signal and slightly veers off the road to make room for you to overtake. So I quickly adopted a similar technique. It was while I was blasting into the unknown, with the vehicle devoid of any conversation, probably out of exhaustion from the day’s fasting or out of wonder as to where we were heading, that we were all of a sudden jolted into some excitement. We had run over a double bump that was located at the 2 ends of the next series of human habitations, till the capital city of Damagaram , all in an effort to slow down rush-rush drivers like yours truly. Everybody started invoking the Almighty in various du’as. Of course, those who have been on similar trips earlier, now took the trouble to alert me about the bumps and even showed me the signpost indicating their presence. “An gaishe ku. Medicine after death” I thought to myself. “But now I know that already, can someone please give me some notification about something else I should know about before we get to it!” I changed gear and accelerated into the night, making up for lost time.

Finally at about 10.17 pm , we arrived at Zinder. There was not much to tell, since the people have started retiring into their house for the night, so the roads were becoming empty. Nice clean town, for even at night, one noticed the lack of refuse dumps that usually litters some major third world cities. Some of the roads were tarred while some others were paved with interlocking paving tiles. Cost saving strategy, I believe. Another cost saving and functional considerations we observed was the use of fluorescent electric tubes for lighting as they consume less energy while they give clear daylight, instead of tungsten bulbs. As we maneuvered through the many streets to our “zango” host, one can see young male and female in 2s or groups socializing at street corners or against walls of many houses. The older generations were seated comfortably in front of their houses in groups too, busy chatting the night away. At last we packed in front of one of the houses and our guide disembarked and entered the house straight on without any formality. Soon he reappeared with a dark skinned, average height and middle aged man closely following him behind.

Our guide introduced us to the man as guests from Kano and members of The Kwandala Foundation on a mission to Zarmou. The man was introduced to us as Malam Yakubu Mai-Chemist. He welcomed us and immediately made arrangements for our reception by spreading huge PVC mats in front of his house, upon which we gladly laid our weary bodies. Except for our female delegates, they were lead into the man’s house to be hosted by his family.

After ensuring we were comfortable, he brought out drinking water, “kunu” (gruel) and other refreshments in jugs and bowls with cups, which we gladly started pouring out for each other. He then demanded to know if we were interested in “Salati” (local salad) with bread or tea and bread? Confused, some of us asked enthusiastically what salati meant, to which Salihu answered “Salad”. Samples of this local vegetable dish were suspiciously asked to be brought and upon tasting it, we ordered for a plate each, even for those who were not around, for some of us had paired off into the night to check out the local terrain. As for me, I laid flat on my back, using the sandcrete paved terrace as a not so comfortable pillow, staring up into the starry night. I searched among the stars and located them “The Stars of Bilkiss” A group of 5 stars, 3 of which are arranged equidistantly like a slightly bent bow, with the other 2 across the middle, forming a short arrow with the central star, so called by me in honour of my wife Bilkiss. A smile crossed my face, remembering her and the kids, so far away in our country Nigeria , yet so close and dear to me in my heart, there in Niger .

The salati arrived from 2 directions, the east and the west. The local roadside tea sellers popularly called “Mai Shayi” usually prepare them. The one from the east was mixed with vegetable oil and that of the west with salad cream, interesting isn’t it? Well we all got busy munching and “downloading” the delicacy using the French bread that goes with it and drinking tea or mineral to “wash it” down. Some of us after finishing their plates played “Oliver Twist”. They asked for more, which was gladly served. As we were getting satisfied, we decided to share on the extras. And so we noticed a difference between the servings. The east salati turned out to be more delicious. After the “appetizer”, our host asked if we were interested in eating “Maka”? Confused once again, one of us asked, “What is Maka?” “Macaroni” we were promptly told. Baffa Yola jumped at the offer, but was more specific by asking if ‘indomie’ noodles were available. It was the turned of our kind host to be confused. After much explanation, he went into his house and came out with 4 sachets of the subject matter. “Yes!” some of us pointed excitedly at the contents in his hand. Our host was delighted but informed that they were the last 4 sachets available in his household and so might not be enough for all of us. Arrangements were made to buy some more from a neighbouring distant shop and the 4 sachets were immediately handed over to the eastside Mai-shayi to prepare. When he was found wanting, Baffa once again jumped to the occasion by going to the commercial tea stand and preparing the Maka for himself. Others followed suit. My 1 sachet with fried egg was finally placed before me after some 30 minutes or so, only for Salihu to insist he had to share the egg with me. After much pleading on his part, I reluctantly gave him some to make a sandwich with a piece of bread. He made some comments about its being a niggardly offer, to which I explained he has an option to return. For where! We had a good laugh and munched away.

Soon some of the adventuring night crawlers returned and we got engaged deciding whether to spend the night there or to continue the journey to Zarmou. After receiving conflicting reports about the road to the destined village being bad, sandy, gully, dusty and so it might not be convenient for us to go on in the night, and another saying the road has recently been repaired and so not likely to pose any danger or threat to our vehicles, most especially the Legend. As team leader I consulted some of us if we should retire for the night, since we were venturing into an unknown territory. After all “Tomorrow is another day” They thought it was a wise suggestion. So I informed the rest of the team that we should stay put till the next morning. We must remember that Allah has stated in the holy Qur’an “Take Your Precaution” Q4: 71. Besides I was tired of the journey for that day and being the nighttime driver of the bus, I needed some rest. The team gladly agreed.

Our host however was not prepared for this development. He had started thinking of how to accommodate us when Freedom Radio’s Garba Bagwai, our only press escort arrived from his night adventure to inform us that he has concluded arrangement for our accommodation, only a few meters away. The Dalhatu sisters were however accommodated in a comfortable air-conditioned room in another house. In fact it was the wives of our host that escorted them there. As for the boys, we were lead to one large house, with a big fore court, which was surrounded by rooms in an L-shape defining the main building, before which is a dwarf wall fencing a screeded entrance terrace. Mattresses, bed sheets, pillows and even mosquito nets were brought and laid out on the screeded part to welcome our weary bodies. There were chairs all around for those who were not ready to “hit the sack” More food and drinks were placed in our midst for any to help themselves. So honoured and relaxed we got gisting, cracking jokes and recounting the day’s events.

Without any prior plan to do so, the discussion gradually became a meeting of sort. Bagwai has made contact with Sulaiman Kaita, BBC Correspondent located in Zinder, who was expecting and excited about our arrival, for he has been monitoring our Foundation activities and movements. He immediately got in touch with the Governor of the State and booked an appointment for us to meet with his Excellency. Same arrangements were also made with the Emir of Damagaram. Kaita made further arrangements to go with us to Zarmou Village to cover the events and wanted an interview for a BBC report with yours truly, the President of The K. Foundation, if present in the delegation. Then there were 2 FM Radio station in town Radio Shukurah and Radio Amfani that wanted to host us as Special Guests upon our return from Zarmou. Again, there was a newly opened Children Hospital that we were advised to visit as part of our trip. All this was outside our main purpose, which was to deliver food aids and medical assistance to the people of Zarmou. And so careful planning and time utilization has to come into play, if we were to do all that the next day.

Opinions were sought from all present and without much ado we arrived at a programme for the scheduled events. We were to start off at 6.00am prompt for Zarmou, immediately after ‘Sahur’ (pre-dawn fasting meal) and ‘Subh’ (dawn) prayer, arrive at the Village latest by 7.00 am, pay homage to the Village Head, interact with the people, visit their Health Center and give them the food and medical aids, then bid them farewell and head back to Zinder by 10.00am. Upon arrival back in the city, go to the Governor and Emir and then the Children Hospital , then finally visit the radio stations, make the schedule appearances and conduct the interviews with Kaita for BBC and hopefully by 3.00 pm , we should be good to go and thus head for home. As our female companions were not with us, I sent Datti to go and inform them, 6.00am is take-off time. No delay. He complied immediately.

By dawn the next morning, 6.00 am as planned we had taken off for Zarmou. This was a pleasant surprise to me. The discipline with which we all got prepared and ready was least expected, considering the fact that just the previous day we were about 7 hours behind schedule in commencing this trip. Yet this time around we were prompt and the so called “African Time’ thing was no where to be found. Soon we were on a slim tarred road heading for the destined village. We reached a checkpoint, where each driver had to stop as usual without being told by the officers who were found at this security posts. One of the officers in desert camouflage uniform, some were in green camouflage and others in orange overall, approached the vehicle leisurely, collect papers handed over to him, read the content and cross checked the vehicle plate numbers against that contained in the papers and then look into our vehicle for anything suspicious, make a comment or 2 and then handed over the papers back to the driver and another officer, probably a junior, standing at the road block then lowered the rope across the road after getting a clearance nod, thus allowing the motorists on.

At one post though, Salihu who was driving almost had a situation, but it was safely averted, Allah willing. He was asked to produce his driver’s license by an officer, which he informed was in his bag in the other vehicle. I, who had my license with me, was actually offered to drive earlier, but I declined as I was scheduled to take over the wheels as soon as night falls. The security man was however not convinced but not wanting to delay such a “diplomatic group” and its humanitarian cargo, gave our driver a verbal trouncing and allowed us through. One amazing thing we noticed was that none, I repeat none of the border officials demanded for a single Kobo, talk less of N20.00 or its Francs equivalent as “You know what” from us or any other driver for that matter. Na wao! They just perform their routine checks and flagged us on. Then it occurred to me that the Transparency International corruption rating of our country had been a slap that was not too far fetched. Man! We have to do something about it.

After this checkpoint we then turned on to a road, tarred at first but a kilometer or 2 later became untarred. That was when our real adventurous drive started. For as we suspected and feared the previous night, the road was all we were warned it would be. Not worst but almost. We immediately gave thanks and grace to Allah for not allowing us to venture into the night as wanted by our eager-to-reach home escorts. Besides, the country side has some of the most beautiful breath taking landscapes in the world, which would have been missed had we journeyed in the night. We drove for about 20 Km without any vehicle coming from the opposite direction, then one truck announced its presence with a dusty escort and we quickly wound up our windows to keep the unwanted out. The road, besides having all the hazards mentioned to us earlier, also have some other interesting features like the water ways of their seasonal streams that passes over a concrete connection instead of under a normal bridge, built as such again I believe as a cost saving approach to providing essential infrastructure facilities to the people. To counter the eroding force of the flowing stream, which were now all dry due to the famine thing, for the rainy season has just gone by, exposing fine gray and browny sand beds, a boulder filled protective cover with a wire mesh was built at the sides of this submerged land connector.

The first time we met this concrete connection, our driver was taken unaware, but being a mini bus, no damage was recorded on the vehicle except on our psychological well-being. But the Honda occupants were not so lucky as both the car and their frame of minds got a jolt, though no damage was done. We were all grateful that we did not come the previous night, as more challenging obstacles were met. Then of a sudden, we saw one white lady jogging towards us on the side of this dusty road. She seemed to appear from nowhere. She smiled and waved at us as we passed each other. I smiled and waved back and thought to myself “Turawa ke nan, ko me ta zo yi nan?” They are everywhere; this one was probably a French woman, possibly a conducting a research. We drove on and had to eventually make a right turn on to another untarred road, which was being repaired with fresh layers of laterite earth. At this point we had to wait for the Legend, which would miss us if we were to continue without giving them a lead.

So we all disembarked. Some of us took the opportunity to take a leak, while others stretched their feet. Those sitting at the back of the bus who left their windows open through the hour long journey thus far had gone through a time travel experience into the future, for they had assumed their possible old age looks. They were looking all 25-30 years older from the dust spray. We had a good laugh as those affected got busy brushing and wiping off the undesirable. For a moment I felt sad, for here was Mother Nature doing a wonderful job of make-up, where our movie industry make-up artists are busy making such a loose, careless effort. Soon the Honda was on to us.

We traveled for another 15 Km before we met the road construction workers and vehicles working on the road. They was no access from their activities, so we had no option but to reverse for about 500 meters to make a detour through the bush and eventually bust out ahead of them. We moved on only to make some more diversions as bridges; proper ones this time around were being constructed over the dry stream ways. Eventually we arrived at our destination, Zarmou Village in Zinder State of Niger Republic by 8.00 am , 1 hour behind our earlier estimation.

Upon approaching our final stop, the first thing we noticed was the food and medical aids carrying truck parked in front of the Village Head’s palace. The driver stared at us with a stern unwelcome look as we passed by. We smiled and waved all the same. Parking right next to his vehicle we disembarked. Our escort without wasting anytime or engaging in any protocol went straight into the palace to announce our presence. And soon enough one slim old man emerged in royal but humble regalia, most likely the “Mai Gari” appeared from a traditional architecture zaure and welcomed us. He invited us all and led us back into where he came from. We in turn followed him to an inner rectangular room filled with modern upholstery. This is where he receives his august visitors I guessed. Our delegation made ourselves comfortable, with those who could not find seats, sitting on the PVC carpeted floor. The Village Head gave a brief welcome address and then demanded to know our mission to his domain.

With due courtesy and respect, first I introduced our team and then I explained our purpose and expectations. The Chief having heard us out expressed his unquantified joy and happiness over our brotherly adventure. He immediately instructed that his subjects be gathered in front of his royal palace. Interestingly, in a remote village like this where a town crier was expected to go about his information dissemination thing, you know the ‘old skool’ way, the announcement were carried out on their own FM station. Yes, they call it “Zarmou FM 95.9” It is one of the rural radio stations scattered across Niger Republic, which was established by the Government and used to educate and enlighten the populace within a 20 Km radius about topical issues. It was the Manager of this 2-room media facility that quickly echoed the Village Head’s call. And within 5-10 minutes, all the men and children of the village had gathered. Meanwhile our medical crew had gone to the village health center and gotten busy with the sick and the malnourished patients available there.

I must not forget to tell about the concluding part of the encounter with our truck driver. He approached us after we came out from the Chief’s palace and appealed that we give him some more money or else he might not be able to get back to Nigeria . “Why is that?” we asked. He said the balance due to him would not purchase enough fuel for him, as it is an expensive commodity in that country. The Diplomatic Aide who was with him on the journey also alerted us that, the driver had no driver’s license and almost got arrested at a checkpoint had it not been for his intervention and the mission involved being non-commercial. We were alarmed and disturbed about this bit of information, so had to check our already stretched budget and still squeeze out another N2000. 00. This we added to his outstanding balance of N11, 000. 00, letting him know it was on humanitarian grounds that we did that, as we are in no position to give him anymore.

Trust “The Bold and The greedy”, the driver having collected this sum once again expressed his dissatisfaction with the amount and threatened to approach the Village Head and solicit for assistance from him. We told him fair enough but first he had to give us back the N2000 or else we would not allow him to make that move. This finally checked his excesses. For the Aide had told us secretly that he has enough fuel in his tank, his major fear is how he can escape his driver’s license default from the security men at the posts. We then requested the Diplomatic Aide to give him copies of the diplomatic clearance documents to help him through the checkpoints. Having gotten these, without as much as a “thank you” but making some disgruntled statements, he finally got into his truck and drove out of the palace fore court.

Now lets get back to the main story. With the whole village assembled (except the female folks), the Chief addressed the gathering and gave us the opportunity to talk to his people. Once again I got up and stated our mission, identifying fully with their predicament thus coming all the way from Kano , Nigeria to deliver whatever we had been able to gather from our own people for their own. The Zarmou FM station manager was covering all this, after which he further conducted an interview with me for relaying on the village station. The various head of wards (Masu Unguwa) in attendance were then given the consignments of the food aids for onward distribution at their various neighborhoods. We subsequently went to their health center and our medical team on behalf of the Foundation donated drugs and medical items after treating the sick and the malnourished.

A few moments later while we were at the clinic, our speeches was already being aired on their FM station airwaves for the women folks that could not be at the palace to witness the event live. Except for the few old women that came to express their gratitude and joy, telling us that of all the food aids they received, none of which was direct, in fact it was allocations to neighboring villages that was extended to their people. So ours was most appreciated, touching and unique to them, since we came from so far away in person to donate food and medical aids to their village, and they too in turn would extend the grace to other villages close by. We further called on them to establish similar self-help groups and associations in order to better help themselves as well as channel their needs to their authorities. When they expressed certain difficulty in achieving that it was then proposed that The Kwandala Foundation would establish its first international branch in Zarmou Village much to the relief and delight of the people.

And before we left the village, the Village Head noted that since it was the holy month of Ramadan and so had not been able to give us a befitting reception, he instructed that a ram be given to us to take back to Kano and use for a fast-breaking walimat. This we accepted gratefully and thanked his royal highness most profoundly. The villagers in a similar gesture started donating money to the Foundation and soon about Frs 6,000.00 were gathered before we were finished with the medical treatment at their health center. Finally, we were set and taking one last look at our first international destination as an NGO, we drove quietly out. The experience can only be best imagined rather than described.

Our return journey was much faster, since we now know where we were going and so were not flying blind, as was the case when we were coming to Zarmou. On our way back, we could not help but stop briefly at a point along the road to pose for some group photographs. With those beautiful landscape scenes on the background, holding our “Kwandala 4 Niger Food Crisis” banner in front of us, the whole delegation lined up for some memorable shots. After the photo session, some of us started collecting smooth, molded pebbles scattered all around us as souvenirs. The scene was full of cutely shaped, patterned and arranged boulders in different exotic arrangements, only nature could have achieved at such a monumental scale. It was simply one of the most beautiful and bizarre settings. By 12 noon , we were back in town. By then it was hot and we were all exhausted. We immediately lined up for showers to cool off at our accommodation. Some of us however could not afford such a luxury and soon enough ventured they ventured off to commence arrangements for us to achieve the rest of the programmes lined up for the day.

We got a professional photographer ready to follow us to the Emir’s Palace and the Governor’s office. Bagwai wanted to send a report to Freedom Radio, Kano immediately and also we had to go to Radio Shukurah 105.5 FM for my BBC interview with Kaita. All these were done, though efforts to connect with “Muryar Jama’a” Freedom Radio proved abortive. By the time we got back to “base”, some of our delegation had gone to the local market to purchase a thing or 2 for family, friends and loved ones, while others were busy catching a shut-eye. Without wasting much time, we packaged and labeled the remaining medical items and gave it to our host to help us deliver it to the newly opened CRENU Children Hospital in the city as time was fast running out on us. He had earlier called me to his office and expressed the desire to be a member of the Foundation and also establish another branch in Damagaram. Besides Salihu who was not able to sleep the previous night after taking a specially blended tea was getting into a terrible situation.

We refueled the 2 vehicles with our 50-liter reserve and moved out as soon as we confirmed all were on board. Datti once again took control of the wheels; Umar Nuhu also relieved Baffa Yola for the return trip. They both hit the road with all they have got. They drove as fast as possible and soon enough we were at the border between the 2 countries by fast-breaking time i.e. 6:15 pm . Our clearance was faster this time around and once again we were on our side of the divide going through customs, immigrations and the rest. The call for Magrib prayer signified the end of yet another Ramadan fast as we rushed into breaking it. We prayed at a mosque located at Kongolam border post. After we all regained our composure and having gotten our clearance to proceed, we continued in earnest with the journey. Datti was still behind the driver’s seat. Daura was before us after a few minutes and here we branched into a filling station to buy some fuel. It was now nighttime and so I took control of the steering wheels for the rest of the drive to Kano .

Did I mention that the truck driver was not done with his mischief yet even as he succeeded in making it through the Niger security checkpoints back to Nigeria ? For he kept informing the various officers at each post that we were right behind him with consignments of special bottled milk drinks and were distributing such at each post and that they should expect their own share when we arrive. This was all in an effort to cause us trouble with the checkpoint personnel. Poor soul. “Little minds worry about little things, but great minds worry about great things…” isn’t it?

While we were rushing through Kazaure on our return journey, it occurred to me that there are twelve of us on this historic, epoch journey to Zarmou. So I told the guys in the mini bus that henceforth these 12 members of the Foundation would be distinguished as “The Zarmou 12” or “Z12” for short. These dozen are Umar Idris Azare, Datti Ibrahim Garko, Salihu Tanko Yakasai, Umar S.I. Nuhu, Yusuf Ibrahim, Maryam Dalhatu, Zainab Dalhatu, Abdallah King Hussain, Dr. Isah Umar Isah, Abdullahi Garba Bagwai, AbdurRahman Baffa Yola and I, Tijjani Muhammad Musa. They liked the idea as nobody objected to it. So it was agreed.

Finally we were at Kwanar Ungogo, at the outskirt of town. We parked at the roundabout and all of us disembarked and started congratulating each other for a successful mission. The Foundation had completed a project for the first time in its short life span. It was here that the decision was taken to hold a fast breaking walimat to celebrate the achievement, with the ram forming the main menu. The Vice President I of the Foundation had earlier made an offer to host the members to this very important get-together at his residence. So it was agreed to invite all members to converge there on 11th October 2005 by 6:15 pm . This we did. Among the special persons in attendance were Dr. Isa A. Dutse CMD, Aminu Kano Teaching Hospital and Alhaji Ibrahim Bala MD, Fairview Aviation Consultancy Ltd, both senior members and supporters of the Foundation. The feast was quite grand and very befitting as the Zarmou Village Head and his people; beneficiary of our project wished it to be. We gave thanks and praises to Allah for making the project a complete success. Thus concluding Project “Kwandala 4 Niger Food Crisis”

The Kwandala Foundation is eternally grateful to Chairman, Management and Staff of Freedom Radio, Aminu Kano Teaching Hospital Management, Nigerian Nurses and Midwife Association, AKTH Chapter, All International and Local Media Organizations, All Donor Organizations and Individuals, All Members and Lovers of The Kwandala Foundation. Only Allah can best reward you all for what you have done. For without you, all these would not have been possible. Thank you very much. God Bless.